named burgomasters or echevins, a rank some- what similar to that of alderman : the number of these is twelve; they have the direction of all public works, and hold the keys of the city bank. The military protection of the town is in the charge of the militia, consisting of sixty compa- nies xc2xb0of from 200 to 300 men each. Jews and anabaptists are excluded from this body, as they are not allowed to bear arms: they are, however, obliged to contribute to the support of the city guard, consisting of 1,400 soldiers, and to the night watch, which patroles the streets and calls the hours. In addition to this night patrole, trumpeters are stationed in every church steeple, who sound every half hour, and, in case of fire, ring the alarm bells, and direct enquirers to the place.
The city extends in the form of a semicircle on the southern bank of the Y, which is its diameter; on the land side it was surrounded by a wall and bastions, with a broad and deep fosse : the wall is dismantled; but the bastions still remain, and are used as sites for corn-mills. The Amstel, on en- tering the city, divides into two branches, from each of which issue numerous canals, forming a collection of islands, connected with each other by 290 bridges; of which, that over the Amstel, coirftnanding a panoramic view of the city and its environs, is the only one worthy of notice. That part of the river Y which forms the port of Am- sterdam, is guarded by a double row of piles, with openings at intervals for the admission of vessels : these openings Are always closed at night. The deeply laden ships lie outside the piles, in a place called the Laag. During the period of Dutch prosperity, an hundred vessels have entered the port in one tide, and six or seven hundred were to be seen there at anchor together. On the op- posite side of the Y are the locks by which ships enter the great canal', which is carried thence, in a straight line, northwards to the Texel; thus preventing the risk and delay of a voyage through the Zuyder Zee. This canal, which has been recently finished, is 120 feet wide at the surface, and twenty-five deep. It was constructed at an expense of 1,000,0001. sterling. It terminates at the Helder, which was nothing more than a fish- ing village, until it was fortified by Bonaparte for the defence of a naval arsenal he formed there, and which is now called Willems-oord. The isl- and of the Texel is principally devoted to the breeding of sheep. The cheese made from their milk is much prized by the inhabitants. The canals with which the city is intersected, though extremely convenient and ornamental, are attend- ed with one very disagreeable consequence : from the stagnation of the water, and the collection of offal of every kind discharged into them, they send forth effluvia equally offensive and unwhole- some, which all the characteristic cleanliness of the inhabitants has not been able wholly to re- move. Mills have been erected on their banks, to promote a circulation of air by ventilation; others, called mud-mills, from the purpose to Which thev are applied, are also used to raise and remove the slime which the river deposits largely. |
In consequence of the badness of the founda- tion, the whole city is built on piles driven end- ways into the mud; a cirsmnstance which occa- sioned the witty remark of Erasmus, on visiting it, that he was in a town where the inhabitants lived, like rooks, on the the tops of trees. This circumstance also occasioned the restriction of coaches to men of consequence and physicians, who paid a tax for the privilege of using them; the magistrates conceiving that the rolling of the wheels produced a dangerous concussion of the piles. Goods are conveyed through the town on sledges; and the common conveyance for those who do not wish to walk is a kind of sleigh Or traineau, consisting of the body of a carriage fus- ed on a hurdle, drawn by a single horse, and guided by the driver, who walks by its side. The streets in general are narrow, with the exception of a few which present a fine appearance, and are adorned with spacious mansions. The principal square is the Dam, in front of the palace ; besides which there are three others, where markets and an annual fair are held. The palace, formerly the stadthouse, or town hall, is considered to be the most magnificent building in Holland. It forms an oblong square, 282 feet in length, 235 in breadth, and 116 in height, besides the tower, whieh is 67 feet high. Within is a spacious hall, 150 feet long, 60 broad, and 100 high. This hall, and the other apartments of the paiace, are adorn- ed with some fine paintings. Strangers are ad- mitted daily to view it, under the sole restriction of writing down their names on entering. The front entrance has seven doors, which were in- tended for the representatives of the Seven Unit- ed Provinces, but are now reserved exclusively for the royal family. All other persons obtain admission through the back entrance. The base- ment story was formerly used to hold the im- mense treasures of the bank.
The royal museum contains, besides other cu- riosities, a fine collection of paintings, chiefly of the Flemish school. It is said that the emperor Alexander offered the sum of 30,000Z. for one alone. Visitors are admissible to the museum on terms of equal liberality as to the palace.
The exchange is a large but plain building, 230 feet in length and 130 in breadth : it is capable of containing 4,500 persons; and is divided into thir- ty-six compartments, for the transaction of the various kinds of commercial business carried on there.
The deficiency of architectural elegance in the places of public worship is very striking, particu- larly to travellers coming from the Netherlands, where much attention is paid to their embelish- ment. The old church of St. Nicholas has some fine painted windows, and contains the tombs of several of the celebrated Dutch admirals. The burial ground of one of the sixteen chapels attach ed to it was appropriated, by the catholic magis- tracy of Amsterdam, during the period of religious persecution, for the interment of the protestant merchants of Hamburgh who died here. The new church of St. Catherine contains a splendid monument of white marble, erected to the memory of admiral de Ruyter. The Portuguese synagogue is said to have been built in imitation of the tem- ple of Solomon. The churches of the established religion, which is the reformed or Calvinistic, are distinguished by being the only places of worship which are allowed the use of bells. The total number of churches is, ten Dutch reformed, twenty-two catholic, one French reformed, one English preshyterian, three Lutheran, one ana- baptist, one Walloon, one Greek, and seven syna- gogues. The number of resident Jews is estima- ted at 17,000.
The management of the penitentiaries is pecu- liarly worthy of notice. The number of convicts is great, not because crime is more common, but because the punishment of death is seldom inflict- |