island of Candia, and the Archipelago. Under the Turks it was divided into four pachalics, viz. Salonica, Joannina, Egropos or Negropont, and Tripolizza.
It will be proper, before we speak of modern or Independent Greece, first to describe the whole of the country in Europe inhabited by the descendants of the ancient Greeks. This region is a sort of peninsula lying between the Archipelago and the Ionian sea. its northern boundary is rather indefinite.
Pindus, now Metzova, is probably the nucleus of the mountains in the Greek peninsula; its rocks, forests and poetic fountains have of late given rise to many interesting observations, but its elevation is still unknown. The numerous val- lies on its sides are covered with trees ; snow falls generally during the month of October on all its summits, and two of them, Dokimi and Peristera, are covered with snow almost the whole year; their height may be vaguely estimated at eight or nine thousand feet. The mountains of Epirus ex- tend to the shores of the sea ; Thessaly is encom- passed with hills, and forms an amphitheatre on which seventy-five towns were in ancient times built.
Olyrnpus or the modern Lacha is not, according to Xenagoras, more than 5,760 feet; according to Bernouilii it is 6,120 high ; its rugged and pre- cipitous rocks give it a picturesque and sublime appearance ; the pass of Platamona on the north of Olvmous. is encompassed with perpendicular rocks, that rise to the height of 3,000 feet; the fa- mous pass of Thermopylxc2xae is not so imposing, bnt neither can vie with the one in the ancient Meg- aris, between the Scironion rocks and the Salon- ic gulf. Dark and steep rocks hang above the sea, the waves resound beneath their base, the travel- ler walks along a narrow path near these precipi- ces, and appears suspended between the ocean and the sky.
The erect and steep summits of the ancient Parnassus or the present Liakoura are very lofty, but although they hare been seen by many trav- ellers, they have been measured by none. The middle districts of the Peloponnesus form an ele- vated ridge, and several mountainous groups arise from it; of these Culmos or the ancient Cyllene is said to be the highest central point, and Cape Matapan or the ancient Trenarus, which extends farthest to the south, forms the southern extremi- ty of the European continent.
The coasts of Albania descend gradually towards the gulf of Drino, and rise suddenly near the en- trance of the Adriatic. Rocks are heaped above rocks, their summits reach to the clouds, their sides are rent by lightning, the sea which wash- es them is always tempestuous, and the shores are covered with the wrecks of vessels. Such are the Acroceraunian mountains, so much dread- ed by the ancients; they are now better known f by the name of the Monte de Chimera.
The coasts of the Ionian islands are for the most part very steep, the calcareous rocks of Leucade rise from the bottom of a deep and stormy sea; they were the canse of much alarm to mariners in the time of .Eneas and Ulysses, they are con- sidered dangerous even in the present day.
The island of Candia or Crete is supposed to be a continuation of the mountainous districts which extend along Greece and the Peloponne- sus, and the Cyclades are said to be the scattered fragments of two small chains, the one of which extends from Athens, the other from Euboea;
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thus, as we remove from Hemus, the range be* comes gradually irregular, or terminates in de tached hills and abrupt rocks; the marks of those changes and revolutions which have altered the surface of our globe are apparent in the south of Greece.
It has been maintained that there are some ve- ry high mountains in the Archipelago, a learned Greek physician declares that the summits of the mountains in the island of Andros are covered all the year with snow. If that statement were cor rect, it might be concluded that the most elevated points in the whole of Greece are situated in that island; philosophers might expect to find there the remains of an immense volcano, an Etna that has been extinguished for ages. So extraordina- ry a fact requires to be confirmed by better evi- dence before it can be generally believed ; the au- thor may have perhaps confounded these moun- tains with others in Euboea.
The vale of Tempe extends from the south-west to the north-east, its length is about forty stadia or a league and a half; its breadth, although in general a stadium and a half, is in one place not more than a hundred feet. The calm streams of the Peneus water the valley under the shade of poplars or plane trees, near rocks overspread with ivv, and green and fertile hills ; several ver dant and beautiful islands have been discovered on the river, but its banks are suddenly contract- ed, rocks are confusedly heaped on rocks, and its streams are precipitated with a loud noise across a narrow pass, but beyond it the waters resume their tranquil course, and mingle with the sea.
The following tradition was very generally be- lieved in ancient times; the Peneus, it is said having at one period no outlet, formed a great lake, which covered a part of Thessaly, particu- larly the Pelasgic plain to the south of Larissa- The valley of Tempe was opened by an earth- quake, the lake flowed into the sea, and the dry land gradually appeared. The inhabitants of that region instituted a festival to commemorate an event by which the face of their country had been changed. Theophrastus having observ- ed that the climate of Thessaly was colder in his time, attributes it to the artificial channels, by means of which the stagnant waters had been drained ; some of the poets corroborate that opin- ion, and claim for Hercules the glory of having opened a passage for the Peneus. According to some authors, the deluge in the tiiq^ of Deuca- lion extended over the whole earth; it is more generally supposed to have been a partial inunda- tion of Thessaly, which lasted three months; it may be accounted for by admitting that the chan- nel of the Peneus was blocked either by an earth- quake during which some rocks were overturned and thus formed an effectual barrier for its course, or by excessive rains, which occasioned a sudden and extraordinary augmentation of its waters.
The cave of Trophonius, a long time the abode of superstition, is still to be seen in Bcetia, and that of Corycius is situated to the north of Del phi; although very deep, almost the whole of it is illumined by the light of day ; it is so large that all the inhabitants of Delphi went to it for shel- ter during the invasion of Xerxes. Every part in the neighbourhood of Mount Parnassus abounds in caverns, which were held in great veneration by the common people; it has been supposed that mephitical vapours issued from the spiracles near the celebrated cave of the oracle, above which the pythoness sat on the sacred tripod; the natural |