ed their hoary summits cannot realize the extent and magnificence of the scene. These mountains are decidedly of primitive formation. Nothing of volcanic origin has ever yet been discovered, on the most diligent research. They have for ages, probably, exhibited the same unvarying aspect. No minerals are here found of much rarity or value. The rock which most abounds is schistus, intermixed with greenstone, mica, granite, and gneiss. The three highest peaks are composed entirely of fragments of rocks, heaped together in confusion, but pretty firmly fixed in their situations. These rocks are an intermediate substance between gneiss and micaceous schistus; they are excessively rough and coarse, and gray, almost black, with lichens. The mica in them is abundant, of different colors—red, black, and limpid ; and, though sometimes several inches in diameter, yet most often irregularly stratified. The granite contains emerald, tourmaline, of which are found some beautiful specimens, and garnets, besides its proper constituents. Crystals of quartz, pyrites, actinote, jasper, porphyry, fluate of lime, and magnetic iron ore are some- times obtained. m
During nine or ten months of the year, the summits of the mountains are covered with snow and ice, giving them a bright and dazzling ap- pearance. On every side are long and winding gullies, deepening in their descent to the plains below.
Here some of the finest rivers of New England originate. The Saco flows from the east side of the mountains; the branches of the Androscog- gin from the north; the Amonoosuck, and other tributaries of the Connecticut, from the west; and the Pemigewasset from the south, its foun- tain being near that of the Saco. The sides of the hills are, in many parts, covered with soil; but this is very superficial in all cases, and every spot that can be reached by running water is left destitute of every thing but rocks and pebbles, of which, likewise, the river bottoms are exclu- sively composed. In these cold and elevated regions, the period for the growth of vegetables is extremely brief; the mountains must be for- ever sterile. Moss and lichens may be found near the summits, but of a meagre and scanty growth; looking as if they had wandered from their proper zone below, into those realms of barren desolation. |
A visit of Mr. Vines to the White Mountains, described by Winthrop, is worthy of notice. It was performed in the month of August, 1642, by him, in company with Thomas Gorges, the dep- uty governor. Darby Field, who was living at Exeter, 1639, has the credit of being the first traveller to these mountains. His journey, also, is described by Winthrop, who says it was per- formed in the year 1632. He appears to have returned by the way of Saco. The report he brought,'' says Winthrop, of shining stones, &c., caused divers others to travel thither, but they found nothing worth their pains. Mr. Gorges and Mr. Vines, two of the magistrates of Sir F. Gorges' province, went thither about the end of this month,'' (August.) They set out, probably, a few days after the return of Field, dazzled by the visions of diamonds, and other precious min- erals, with which the fancy of this man had gar- nished his story. They went up Saco River in birch canoes; and that way they found it 90 miles to Pegwagget, an Indian town, but by land it is but 60. Upon Saco River they found many thousand acres of rich meadow, but there are ten falls, which hinder boats, &c. From the Indian town they went up hill, (for the most part,) about 30 miles in woody lands ; then they went about 7 or 8 miles upon shattered rocks, without tree or grass, very steep all the way. At the top is a plain, about 3 or 4 miles over, all shattered stones; and upon that is another rock, or spire, about a mile in height, and about an acre of ground at the top. At the top of the plain arise four great rivers, each of them so much water at the first issue as would drive a mill: Connecticut River from two heads, at the north-west and south-west, which join in one about 60 miles off; Saco River on the south-east; Amascoggin, which runs into Casco Bay at the north-east; and the Kennebec, at the north by east. The mountain runs east and west, 30 or 40 miles, but the peak is above all the rest. They went and returned in fifteen days.'' This description of the mountains was probably communicated by Mr. Vines to Gov- ernor Winthrop. It conveys a very accurate idea of them, as they now strike the traveller.
The Notch of the White Mountains is a phrase appropriated to a very narrow defile, extending two miles in length, between two huge cliffs, ap- parently rent asunder by some vast convulsion of nature, probably that of the deluge. The entrance of the chasm on the east side is formed by two rocks, standing perpendicular, at the dis- tance of 22 feet from each other; one about 20 feet in height, the other about 12. The road from Lancaster to Portland passes through this notch, following the course of the head stream of the Saco.
The scenery at this place is exceedingly beau- tiful and grand. The mountain, otherwise a con- tinued range, is here cloven quite down to its base, opening a passage for the waters of the Saco. The gap is so narrow, that space has with difficulty been found for the road. About half a mile from the entrance of the chasm is seen a most beautiful cascade, issuing from a mountain on the right, about 800 feet above the subjacent valley, and about two miles distant. The stream passes over a series of rocks, almost perpendicu- lar, with a course so little broken as to preserve the appearance of a uniform current, and yet so far disturbed as to be perfectly white. This beautiful stream, which passes down a stupendous precipice, is called by Dwight the Silver Cascade. It is probably one of the most beautiful in the world.
At the distance of three fourths of a mile from the entrance of the chasm is a brook, called the Flume, which falls from a height of 240 or 250 feet, over three precipices ; down the first two in a single current, and over the last in three, which unite again at the bottom, in a small basin, formed by the hand of nature in the rocks. The water is pure and transparent, and it would be impossi- ble for a brook of its size to be modelled into more diversified or delightful forms.
It is by no means strange that the unlettered Indian fancied these regions to be the abodes of celestial beings; while the scholar, without a stretch of fancy, in calling to mind the mythol- ogy of Greece, might find here a fit place for the assemblies and sports of the Dryads, Naiads, and Oreads.
Avalanches, or slides, from the mountains. Oj the 28th of August, 1826, there occurred one ot |